R13. Fall 2020 Ready-to-Wear - New York Fashion Week.

(Images from the designer and the public domain. Credited to the photographer/company where applicable: Gorunway.com)

Chris Leba for his brand R13 continues on with the late 1970s and early 1980s tribute to a rundown New York City; a broken Lower East Side, Hells Kitchen, CBGBs, punk rock and London boys 'The Clash' with their Combat Rock styles.  It is an interfusion and romanticism that represents over forty years of benchmarked aesthetics, for the most part it works very well, as a visual snapshot of coalescing urban looks in all of its nostalgia.  And it seems that Leba has moved up a notch of the mentioned time-line from 70's punk onto the 1982 era of Malcolm McLaren and Viviene Westwood oversize hats, more so Westwood's Autumn/Winter 83' collection titled 'Buffalo Girl's', of Peruvian inspired looks which were sold onto, via McLaren, emerging hip hop styles that were gaining momentum on the streets of NYC at the time.

Although in light of the obvious influences, Leba has kept within the spectrum of his denim inspired looks, as far as fits go, close to the R13 template, without the loose over sized drapey styles that Westwood achieved for her quintessential 80's collection.  But the similarities remain.  However, there is no doubt of the cross Atlantic influences and those creative tensions between British subculture and American exceptionalism.  The question asked in all of its tedium: Who influenced who? 

The overall collection for R13's Fall 2020 showing is more or less following Leba's script, it doesn't really break new ground with its displayed styles, which for the most part reflects a homogeneous appeal.  There is his denim ensembles, tight leather pants, shearer jackets and fur trimmings.  The punk esque leopard skin prints and Western-style fusion, remains as Leba's personal insert of establishing the brand's benchmarked styles.  As mentioned, it does not deviate too far away from Leba's vade mecum.