EXCERPT: RICK OWENS. SPRING 2024 - PARIS FASHION WEEK.

 "...I have been reviewing Owens collections for over a decade, and in 2020, I was able to write for a London fashion magazine in a retrospective article of his earlier years as a fashion designer in Los Angeles, before venturing onto Paris with his wife Michèle Lamy in 2003.  Owens no doubt holds a mystique, with his enigmatic persona, and in a relentless way he has not missed a single Paris Fashion Week show since his relocation from L.A.  Holding most of his runway presentations at Owens's beloved Palais de Tokyo, which has been that stalwart backdrop for most of his seasonal collections.   Yet, I have also observed a contrarian sentiment from the designer, which does not always correlate with his showings.   This could be seen with his latest array, explaining to the press that he felt less "doomy" offering a "positive" Fall collection.  I guess, it is up to the observer to decide and Owens Fall 2024 collection, to me, remains deeply fixed within his Oracles of Doom, which evolved out of the 2020 and 2021 non-crowd pandemic days on Lido beach in Venice.  And ironically, Owens Fall 2024 collection has been titled "Lido".

The Fall 2024 collection, with its smoke machine billowing out a purple haze, now a constant fixture for Owens's runway shows, highlights, although not domineering over his signature black and grays, those red and orange hues.  One maybe hard pressed to see a lighter side or so called positive reflection from his latest collection and Owens's doom doesn't seem to have been toned down, sans the scattered flower petals, that in estorica actually mean the end.  And as noted from recent showings, the stygian void contact lenses have remained, as have the Sybil orcales.  Seen, as wraith like and veiled spectras, moving out of the lilac haze, representing the defiant necromancer.  

And she did warn us not to be too overconfident.  It always comes in threes."

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(A.Glass 2023) 

Full review: chiasmusmagazine.blogspot.com/2023/09/rick-owens-spring-2024-paris-fashion.html

RICK OWENS THE EARLY YEARS 1994-2002: FROM HOLLYWOOD BOULEVARD TO NEW YORK FASHION WEEK.  (A.Glass 2020)