David Koma. Spring 2025 - Paris Fashion Week

(Images:  David Koma 2024)

U.K. designer David Koma who has just been given the creative reins of iconic Italian fashion designer Anna Molinari's Blumarine. Which was very much that niche 'Resort' fashion brand of the mid 1970s with all of its epicurean flair, and the late nude photographer Helmut Newton, who personified the eros of the 70s and 1980s with gusto, was their stalwart photographer.  With the majority of the sexulaized images on Blumarine ads within those decades, were taken by him.  Over the years, the brand, as you would expect, entered the last Two decades of conservatism, which have since toned down their more revealing and sheer styles, shelving their BoHo chic inspired, tryst look.  And Koma, who has been dying to reinstate the heyday years of sexual freedom and devil-may-care attitude with his own take on the said looks, at least as a matured sophistication, beyond any narcissistic social media feed.  Has yet to reveal his debut collection for Blumarine, in the meantime his back catalog for his own signature label should be suffice enough, in telling what might be visually in-store.

So, Koma did not hold a runway showing for Spring 2025, as preparation for his Blumarine collection took precedence, instead revealing his latest lookbook at his studio in Paris.  And the collection did not disappoint, staying on track and holding the line of his stylized amatory.  With 34 pieces on display, the Spring 2025 styles certainly felt more stripped back, and daren't I say, slightly rushed.  Some of the detailing, and innovation from prior collections are not as evident, again this could be because of time constraints, whilst juggling his new position at Blumarine and maintaining the David Koma label.  Regardless, even as a snapshot, Koma's skills in crafting the amorous are indeed on display.

Asymmetrical thigh-high cocktail dresses, lace, lingerie, sheer tops, ruffled styles, miniskirts, flowers and feathers.  It is very much and early 1980s array, with its Studio 54 esque sex appeal, that to this day has not be reviled with its blatant hedonism.  Also noted are the denim and chains, in homage to late 1970s NYC CBGB punk looks ala Blondie, who assisted in instigating the First wave of rebellious female fashion, which was all about freedom of choice, and expression.

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(A.Glass 2024)