fashion excerpt: David Koma. Spring 2025 - Paris Fashion Week

 

"U.K. designer David Koma who has just been given the creative reins of iconic Italian fashion designer Anna Molinari's Blumarine. Which was very much that niche 'Resort' fashion brand of the mid 1970s with all of its epicurean flair, and the late nude photographer Helmut Newton, who personified the eros of the 70s and 1980s with gusto, was their stalwart photographer.  With the majority of the sexulaized images on Blumarine ads within those decades, were taken by him.  Over the years, the brand, as you would expect, entered the last Two decades of conservatism, which have since toned down their more revealing and sheer styles, shelving their BoHo chic inspired, tryst look.  And Koma, who has been dying to reinstate the heyday years of sexual freedom and devil-may-care attitude with his own take on the said looks, at least as a matured sophistication, beyond any narcissistic social media feed.  Has yet to reveal his debut collection for Blumarine, in the meantime his back catalog for his own signature label should be suffice enough, in telling what might be visually in-store..."

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(A.Glass 2024)

Full review: chiasmusmagazine.blogspot.com/2024/10/david-koma-spring-2025-paris-fashion.html