Excerpt: Rick Owens. Spring/Summer Mens 2026 - Paris Fashion Week

 

"...Is there any hope for us?

Owens isn't asking this question, but rather he has supercharged the masculine once again, which has been seen in earlier showings of the past decade, morphing between the vampiric, sobre, withdrawn and self protected male, insulated in layers of padded clothing, to the intensity of the male warrior.  The bare chested rebel, the adventure, aggressive and impulsive, with a dark overlay.  The killer.   Trench coats, leather biker jackets, chains, with tighter, less drapey looks, with styles contouring over muscle and physical energy.  It is not a pretty collection, moving away, as mentioned, from the mysterious antihero, who embraces both the fluidity of masculine and feminine.  The master.  With his latest collection, it very much holds that male impulsiveness, and aimless in his direction.  As models from a scaffolding created walkway, overlooking the  Palais de Tokyo 'pool', descend from ladders into the knee high water, dredging through the watery foundation wearing Owens Spring/Summer 2026 styles.  And  at times submerging themselves, full body into the water, as some ritualized rights-of-passage procession.  With only one of Owens models adorning, now a familiar accessory to Owens models, the aphotic contact lenses, and offering a more of mysterious stranger look, in contrast of the bare chested models and attires.

Owens, at times, contrarian laced dichotomy, is very much on show with his latest collection."

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(A.Glass 2025)

Full review: chiasmusmagazine.blogspot.com/2025/06/rick-owens-springsummer-mens-2026-paris.html