David Koma. Resort 2025 - Lookbook
After David Koma's Blumarine debut at Milan Fashion Week, which pushed his branding of newfound hedonism through the roof. Touching upon that swing point, between the 1960s counterculture, sexual liberation, and the beginning of the 1970s, when modernism, bohemian chic, and intensified hedonism merged and ramped up to counterculture highs. Whitst at the same time, maintaining his own signature label with very much the said themes.
For his Resort 2026 collection, Koma has studied the 2007 "Mad Men" series and its aesthetical ethos, be it that turning point from 1950s rigidity into 1960s counterculture expectations, when the experimental and risqué collided, in art, fashion and lifestyles and if you know the series, you'll know that the clash that did occur when 50s patriarchal expectations began to come undone, no pun. And the pop-art of the late Mel Ramos, who passed away in 2017, was also a point of inspiration for Koma's latest collection, more so from one particular painting, which is Ramos's "Beaver Shot" (1966), of a pop-art cartoonish drawn woman posing with her verticle black and white striped, mini skirt, short sleeve one piece, overlaid with magnified insert (over her pelvis), as though you have x-ray vision, and are able to see her underwear. Sexist?
Maybe, yet at the time part of that necessity of freeing up from the oppressive, hypocritical and contradictory family values of the 1950s whilst America was teetering on the verge of Fascism, as it nearly did under Roosevelt in the 1930s. Does it sound familiar? And yes, we could all be going down that path once again after two decades of Middle Class mortgages and complacency, and it is has landed hard, with most of Europe now Right Wing to Far Right and Fascism alive and well within America, under Trump 2.0. It's time for the counterculture, me thinks. Don't you? Does Koma? And it may indeed be sexual. And no, we haven't' seen that in decades, because this time, it won't be resold back to us before the fact (or act). Well, at least we may actually turn off our phones whilst having sex, and all night thereafter, maybe even the next day, and so on.
Koma's latest collection, keeps it all to that point. With a combination of acromantic black, whites, blues, lace, silk, flower prints and patterns, the carnal is most definitely onshow, yet so is the sophistication, seen in the styles, and his precision cuts. There is also the subtle, yet at times blunt flows, which is part of his amorous impression. This is Koma's backdated eros intended for the now, which has been his stalwart delivery through his label's many stylisations of the bygone eras. And, this one, has to be one of Koma's most sexual to date.
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(A.Glass 2025)
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