Moncler 6. 1017 ALYX 9SM men's Fall 2019 – Milan Fashion Week.

(Images from Vogue.com and wwd.com. The public domain. Used in promotion of the designer.)

As discussed with Craig Green's Moncler 5, Remo Ruffini has sent the scale to 12 from 7. That is twelve extra designers to complete projects for 2019 seasons under both their signature brands and the Moncler labeling. Matthew Williams is a designer l know very little about, except that he debuted his brand 1017 ALYX 9SM in 2018 via Paris Fashion Week.  This, essentially on a projected aspect of seasonal trends, has now swelled dramatically with new designers appearing monthly, either ones that are already in and other trying to get in, have create a monster bubble of fashion design. But, as mentioned, with loose monetarily policy (global interest markets) throughout the world and multinationals (sport companies) collaborating at a feverish pace trying to chase new markets. The problem is a bloated excess within the fashion industry, now with the 80s an 90s swinging back as a trend.  I personally believe it will be a short lived one, running on the pretense of 1995 post grudge sportswear attire. It's not going stick too far into 2019, on the fact that globally, markets could be shrinking down. And that means spending power on exclusivity of trends of yesteryear will decrease.  So, in the meantime we shall see.  Regardless, designers such as Williams need to push forward with newer concepts rather than tapping past trends. 

And he has achieved this with his Moncler 6 Fall 2019 collaboration. 

Such an impressive array of newer styles reworked from what Yohji Yamamoto was able to do with his Y-3 partnership with Adidas for over fifteen years.  If anything, whether this is the case with Alyx, for newer designers looking for influences in regards to street/utility wear, forget about the 80s and 90. Yamamoto's Y-3 collection backlogged over a decade holds a lot of clues to what may form as the post economic collapse and/or climate chaos aesthetic trends moving into 2019. 'Dystopia Wear' isn't an actual coined term, nor utility and construction styles ala Samuel Ross's A-Cold-Wall, who has set the pinnacle for these newer urban styles.  Whatever the terminology is used for these newer trends, those mentioned labels come to mind when reviewing these collections; and from what I have seen with his brand Alyx, Matthew Williams is holding his own. 

Aware that Monlcer is the famous French (now Italian) outdoor, mountaineering company. Developing styles that fit current aesthetics and sentiments is important, rather than setting back into early dynamics.  For the Moncler/Alyx collection it is urban decay, economic and government volatility mixed with colder winters and hotter summers. Tough, resilient styles, strapped together as a compressed attire, utilizing recycled materials. There are leather ensembles, overlaid with puffer jackets, draped synthetic smock styles as pull overs, leggings ala the established German designer Boris Bidjian Saberi's benchmarked styles. Insulated and protected, shearer jackets, tactical style vests. This is urban combat inspired regalia and I like it a lot.  Despite the designer comparisons. 

It is a very distinct collection.