Antonio Marras. Pre-Fall 2020 - Milan

(Images from the designer and the public domain. Credited to the photographer/company where applicable: Antonio Marras)

Antonio Marras, in someways, is an unsung hero of fashion.  Not overly known, the Italian designer entered the industry with no formal skills, only from what his father, a boutique owner in Alghero (Sardinia), encouraged the young Marras to study clothing and the materials used.  To which from his father's encouragement, he was able in the years that followed, with the assistance of a financial backer, establish his first Ready-to-Wear collection in 1987.  WithIn the conglomerate world of mega fashion brands and the ruthlessness of churning through creative directors, Marras was hired by the LVMH goup in 2008 to head Kenzo's creative team, only to be sacked in 2012, hired to replace Marras was American designers of Open Ceremony  fame; Carol Lim and Humberto Leon to take the helm only to be replaced in 2019 by Portuguese designer Felipe Oliveira Baptista.  It is hard to know what this does to the ego of a designer, hired with their own vision and styles to change an already established brand.  Which doesn't in the end, follow through - due to falling sales.

Regardless of the personal sentiment since his departure from Kenzo in 2012, Marras has settled himself back into his signature band and not only showing his skills as a designer but also of an avid story teller, particularly when he is able to create a theme.  The sultry and more layered intricacies of Sardinia styles has always been evident through Marras collections.  In his own perspective, the layering of clothes holds history, an imprint of time and the collection of memories.  In which his Pre-Fall 2020 collection titled “Dora Marra Despite Picasso” in memory of Picasso's lover (Henriette Theodora Markovitc), who was also an incredibly talented photographer, surrealist and poet – she was also Piscasso's muse ala the 'Weeping Woman' portrait.  Marras, in a romantic overture has dedicated his latest collection to Markovitc, in offering a glimpse at what her wardrobe may have looked like hence the overall impression the collection reflects.  There is an ease and fluidity that the feminine is so naturally endowed with, that  Marras has respectfullly portayed.   She can wear and style from a masculine ensemble, making it her own.  

Marras has ensured in its imagery for his Fall collection, that the oversized pants, cropped open blazers and at times sombre cues maybe seen as an idealism of masculinity through a woman's eyes.  It is also a desire to absorb aspects of the male form, without trying to change its imprint.  Yet there is defined silhouette of sensuality, seductinvness.  With beautiful floral embroidery.  Even if Markovitc lived under the shadow of the Picasso, she was able to master the subtle in its poignancy through her art and stature.  Marras in turn has been able to set a very respectful precedence in his stylized expose of the late artist.