Balenciaga. Pre-Fall 2020 - New York.

(Images from the designer and the public domain. Credited to the photographer/company where applicable: Balenciaga )


Demna Gvasalia is now three seasons in at the creative helm for Balenciaga, already stamping his Vetements imprint in a literal sense, since leaving the family business, onto the styles of the famous and prestiges brand name.  Which, in respect to the rich history of the Spanish Couturier; is in name only, within its finery to sell into the current luxury markets.  Yet, Kering, the multinational giant who owns Balenciaga, has clearly seen the imprint that Gvasalia has made with the five year old brand Vetements.  There is probably an ironic reflection in all this, but business is business and within the structural aspects of it all, fashion seeks to create, whilst following the market and all its trends.  And the current trend that has morphed over from 2019 is the second hand thrift styles, whilst reworking vintage looks and styles with 80's and 90's street wear touches.  As discussed in my running commentary on these evolving styles, that both originated from the current focus of street level aesthetics, has mirrored the brand names themselves. 

And I feel the fusion works very well, however it is not a counter culture to anything, it would be mistaken to assume otherwise.  Fashion doesn't always have to be about rebellion, although it can help in defining moments within the history of style.  The material aspect, at this point in time, is far more appealing.  Hence Gvasalia is aware of this and has manipulated aspects of the Balenciaga name to set itself into the current trend of fashion markets. 

The Pre Fall 2020 collection is Balenciaga incorporating their GW (Gym Wear) sport/causal and formal looks enveloped into Gvasalia's backlash Vetements styles.  Yes, it holds a stylized functionality sans the saturation of the Balenciaga logo which has been 'water marked' in its gimmicky style, over the look book shots.  Like an overkill of branding with its in-joke and cynicism attached.  As mentioned, the irony reflected is also done with an indulgence, but, most consumers won't care either way in their gravitation towards the Balenciaga logo.  But it is the clothes, fabrics and the texture of styles that pose the most interest, which Gvasalia's Pre Fall 2020 look book treated as some immature exposé.  That in turn has detracted from the quality of fashion on display.