Neil Barrett. Fall 2020. Menswear- Milan Fashion Week




Images from the designer and the public domain. Credited to the photographer/company where applicable: Gorunway.com)


Neil Barrett, for his Fall 2020 menswear showing has run the collection as a past to present exposé, which at the creative director's age for his signature brand, he maybe looking back at the years that have molded his creative process and life.  I saw a clip of the great American actor Al Pacino recently, who spoke about his career milestones and movies as highlighted aspects of such a distinguished time-line as an actor.  He said something very interesting, which I feel relates to Barrett's show notes in lieu of his latest collection; that, it is only now, in Pacino's later years of life, that he realizes how important his late Grandfather was too him, to which his actual father was never around when he was growing up.  What the actor was referring to, from what was mentioned in the clip, that at some point you do look back and see what imprint or influence, particularly that person  who was close to you as that guidance.  That, in some ways, can be only revealed later on in life.

As a deeper retrospection Barrett's collection is unapologetically from a men's perspective in sentiment, although not entirely seen in its aesthetics, which I think is important, yes, it is part of the 2020 Fall men's style for Milan Fashion Week, but the designer has wind back and refocused within his own established time-line, now his his mid 50's – setting a precedence in its historic snapshot as a display of present styles; in respect of the past.  Which interestingly, does not include a future. Because in all its resonance, there isn't one. 

There are older male models walking for Barrett's latest Fall collection, interfused throughout are the predominately younger male (and female) models as they keep in lockstep, representing the clothes within a cohesive array.  These are not deconstructed set pieces on the contrary they are very structured and layered, offering a larger selection of Barrett's overcoat styles to both fit and suit the older men as much as they would on the younger models and of course intermixed with the fluidity of the feminine – she would look good in any of the male styles on display.  Mosly fine wools from cropped jackets to trench coats, denim pants and pinstripe styles, with the over sized tailoring, seen more so the female models indicative of younger women's fascination with male styles at the moment, as they snap up pieces from Thrift shops mixing and matching against dresses and skirts.  

The quality and presentation of the Fall 2020 collection is both dignified and respectful of Barrett's own career and the promise of building into the now, the present.  Yes, there may not be a future awaiting.  But that only solidifies the need to update and redesign, in its creation.  As it is this moment in time that only matters.     

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