Louis Vuitton. Pre-Fall 2020 men's - New York

Images from the designer and the public domain. Credited to the photographer/company where applicable: Louis Vuitton)

I have to be slightly cynical here, just slightly, but the LVMH (Louis Vuitton) powerhouse is aimed almost solely at one market, that is the Chinese and Hong Kong consumers.  The left over seasons of back dated styles are then resold onto recycled and second thrift markets to which the West then snaps up (we love labels too!).  So, these newer 'brand' orinated street styles, which has proven to be very original within its aesthetics, have been influential in reconfigured some of the runway showings.  Yet it has been illusive in pinpointing its origins, now, I have to be sightly cynical again (just a pinch) but, the rise of 'X' collaborative partnerships of the last couple of years is  indicative of injected lifeblood that the smaller brands have needed due to falling sales, in turn they have also assisted the larger conglomerates to on-sell these newer urban styles.  With the amount of counterfeit designer brands pouring out of China, offsetting with a collaborative deal may put some pressure on the counterfeiters, in an attempt at staying one step ahead of the imitators.  So fashion isn't really slowing down, its trying to adjust to newer markets and selling and buying. If anything the Thrift/recycled/Depop markets are moving up into hyper drive.

Virgil Abloh of his brand Off White, is a success story in it's self, whether of not one may feel the brand is overrated.  Its marketing and inside knowledge is sold as a complete package, being a favorite for the kids of Shanghai, I have personally seen imitation 'Off White' long sleeves sell for $100+.  Such is the brand hungry enthusiasm everyone has at the moment.  Thus, the Louis Vuitton and Virgil Abloh collaboration of late last year was not so much of a shock.  With the LV brand under creative direction via Nicolas Ghesquière, he has pushed out some of the most exclusive, beautifully crafted and modernist inspired designs to date, particularly his Resort 2020 show at the famous TWA Flight Center in LA May last year.  A stunning show.  Abloh in turn has been given the task to wind  back some of the glamour of Louis Vuitton prior seasons, in promoting the 2020 Pre-Fall lookbook.  Setting down more of a street level play.  Which looks great, with its sleek, yet urban sentiment.  Reflecting the so called anti-fashion ethos, which by its definition is not any counter culture dynamic; it's all styles.  

The Pre-Fall menswear has toned down some of the more traditional looks, yet offering, at times, a avant-garde style of some of the fitted suits styles. Which could be Abloh drawing from the faded deconstructed styles of fashion that have faded out of late.  Balancing out some of the overly formal and casual mix and match attires that are now the current trend.  His LV collaboration is a solid as you could expect, not pulling any punches – this is luxury wear.  Great to see camouflage as a material print return, seen on overlaid on jackets and blazers with the LV brand name seen on most of the garments.  With Gucci's massive success last year, Louis Vuitton maybe trying a catch this existing style emerging. Virgil Abloh could be the guy who can match Alessandro Michele.