Excerpt: RICK OWENS. FALL 2022 RTW - PARIS FASHION WEEK

"...Fashion Weeks continued on when the pandemic hit Europe, although there were many misfires and irresponsible aspects from certain designers in between lockdowns and sporadic opening in hope of the economic all clear, it was a mess before the widespread vaccinations took place, Owens, was one of the responsible ones, holding his shows as crowdless displays on the Lido foreshore, the themes that were devised have returned to his beloved Palais de Tokyo tomb like interiors.

The gothic, oracle cult fixtures remain for Owens's  latest Ready-to-Wear collection,  softening its imprint, yet the strobe lighting effect and smoke machines keep the solemn and ambrosial oculist aspects alive.   Very much like Pythia who was the Oracle of Delphi, the 8th Century priestess, who foretold prophecies, apparently high on the fumes of dried Oleander flowers, which were burnt, while the smoke drifted upward, beneath a chasm in the ground where the Oracle sat.  Which, in an interestingly connexion, Owens, did induce the crowd in attendance with a scent, via the smoke machines, which was his collaboration with Aesop.  Although there may not have been widespread hallucinations, Owens Fall 2022 captures the aesthetics of calamity in all of its glory..."

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Full review: https://chiasmusmagazine.blogspot.com/2022/03/rick-owens-fall-2022-rtw-paris-fashion.html  

(A.Glass 2022)