Craig Green. Spring 2024 - London Fashion Week
Craig Green is one of my favorite U.K. fashion designers, who by his own distinction and originality, has been able to devise an oceanic and sea faring influence, merged as a slick deconstructive imprint to his signature label. Yet, with the many reviews that l have written over the years, Green has portrayed a cultish element to his collections with his symmetrically adorned robes and aesthetics. Drawing from the variants of spiritual attire of the many religions of the world, I have always viewed Green collections as a esoterically inspired vanguard of monks, akin to the religious cults written into fictional lore from Frank Herbert's iconic DUNE universe, through to the Lovecraftian 'doomsday' cults and their mythos that within the ocean depths harbors our timely end.
Which, from a rational point of view could ring true, in its metaphor of our changing climate, that the oceans are rising due to global warming. And if the polar caps do end up liquefying into our oceans, the sea, as a nightmare scenario may indeed engulf us all. But, Craig Green is no morbid entity, as his brand name has been more akin to the positive than negative elements of our reality. And this has to be appreciated for Green's fashion imprint over the years, is that humanity can endure and overcome our dire predicament.
And it is 10 years since Green began his label in 2012 and in 2015 for London Fashion Week, when Green debuted his first commercial available men's wear collection, which received a standing ovation. He has since climbed the ranks and held the line as a independent London fashion designer. And for his perseverance Green was able to gain collaboration deals, such as the sportswear giant Adidas and in 2017 he designed the costumes for Ridgely Scott's remake of 'Alien'.
For his Spring 2024 array, Green has implemented less of a structured layering to his symmetrical attributed styles, setting forth a more rustic and broken down attire with its postmodern stylizations. Although his fine tailoring and modernist fits are seen throughout the lookbook styles, Green's latest collection feels rawer as a marketable attire. The trademark 'poetic' and spiritual leanings of his earlier showings are seemingly illusive, replaced by its dramatic edge. With models holding modular lifebuoys, configured as fashion accessories, to exposed stitching and asymmetrical cuts. The Spring collection very much holds a dichotomy of Green's sleekness, mixed with his weather beaten looks.
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(A.Glass 2023)
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