from the Chiasmus Archive: June 29th, 2020 "Y/PROJECT - RESORT 2021"

 

Trying to look ahead at a post Covid-19 world will be difficult, not just for the fashion industry but for everyone.  Fashion being a market place, which focuses on creating seasonal future collections.  In most cases, a year in advance.  Hence the trickle of Resort 2021 styles beginning to emerge from the many months of lockdowns.  So far, the arrays delivered have been muted and compressed in the amount of styles on offer, which is understandable and equally, is the fact that Resort has always been a lookbook affair.  With runway shows hoping to continue in September 2020, albeit in some stripped back and limitation of crowd presence, there is an overall desperation to resume the 'old' normal as quickly as possible.   And September 2020 seems to be the month on the hope calendar when the expected normality may return, with vaccine trials in the works, while shutdowns and reopenings jostle globally over a smashed economic landscape the date and month may continue to be pushed back.  Using the over juiced stock market as the everything-is-all clear indicator could turn out to be fatal. Designers should begin to implement, rather than a future forecast, what is happening now, which is the game changer.  To which, the virus has forced many to do so.

Glenn Martens of Y/Project, after his center piece Fall 2020 show in March 2020, a month before, give and take, when Covid-19 had already landed on Europe and 'social distancing' was an unheard of phrase.  Martens avant-garde reworking of the new hedonism of sex appeal, a trend that was emerging over the 2019 and 2020 seasons, has continued onward, although in a more refined couture inspired style.  Wishing to add distorted shapes as concepts to the brand's trademark layered looks, Martens, after being quarantined, has relied on, like other designers, the piles of deadstock materials, on hand which in turn has ensured he has fused less of an extravagant concept unlike previous collections.

However, Y/Project 2021 styles may be limited in range, but they maintain Martens ability to meld the deconstructed trench coats looks with its conservative styles around the sex appeal of sheer and lingerie outwear.  As mentioned, the cleaner and tailored styles are overshadowing the more avant garde of his impressions, which could indicate Martens couture skills, while  working with a limited material base. Mostly cottons, fine wools, denim, tulle and sheer materials, the structured appeal are also align with the mix and match trends of 2018 and 2019.  The risqué has been toned down slightly, which worked very well in past collections, replaced with a more crafted and structured style.  

___

(A.Glass 2020)