Heliot Emil Fall RTW 2023 - Paris Fashion Week.

A trend that had a brief, yet significant effect on the runway was the urban out wear styles or what could also be deemed as, combative futurist looks.  From 2015 to 2018, designs such as Matthew Williams of 1017 Alyx 9SM and A-Cold-Wall designer Samuel Ross have carried the torch of the said looks, with Rick Owens's earlier manifestations also showing up, from time to time, with his sleek urbanized combat styles.

As the fashion trends have moved from modernist, refined and tailored looks and now back to the avant-garde and darker stylizations.  And as mentioned in many of my recent reviews, could be indicative of the state of the world that we are all currently enduring.  Which, according to the Bulletin of Concerned Scientists, is at 90 seconds to midnight.  So, it is no wonder that elements of the fashion industry, have reinvigorated  their dystopian templates, yet this time, rather than a romanticized imprint from popular culture, it actually might be happening for real.  Society on a global scale could be on the verge of collapse.  And if the global pandemic was the first of many wake up calls, Climate Change and a 'hot' war with Russia and China could be the next descending clouds of chaos.  So, why not dress for the occasion?

The other trend that pops up more often than not, are the amorous styles.  Even though we are living in stressed out times, which according to science, leads to a prolonged exposure of the hormone cortisol, that in turn suppresses sexual urges.  There is also a flipside to this sexual dilemma.  That is, as our 11th hour approaches for the human race and our possible annihilation, we yearn for that end-of-the-world sex, a phenomena that has been documented throughout the ages in anthropology and sociology of chaos and bedlam; we fuck before and after a disaster, because it might indeed be our last fuck.  

Heliot Emil, revealed their first collection in Milan for Spring Summer 2017, to which I did write a review of the studio presented styles.  Brother's Julius Juul and Victor Juul, have since matured the collections of the last 7 years and obviously, as mentioned, drawn from influences of the Avant-garde and deconstructuralist looks of already seasoned fashion designers.  Yet, Julius, who is the creative designer for the brand, named after their late great grandfather, continues to push the standard.  The outwear, urban and dystopian wears with large dashes of the carnal, certainly made an imprint at their Paris Fall 2023 Ready-to Wear show.  A lot more structured and focused than past collections, and there is no doubting the Vetements and Balenciaga imprint via the Gvasalia brothers on Heloit Emil's latest styles .  Noting also, Rick Owens sexualized imprint of his Oracles and Doomsday Witches, which is seen throughout the Heliot Emil collection.

Although, not an outwardly original collection. The Juul brothers are still trying to find their mantle amongst a saturated fashion industry.  And Heloit Emil, being a young brand, may or may not last the distance in an ever changing and tumultuous world.  We can enjoy what is being offered now. 

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(A.Glass 2023)