EXCERPT: YOHJI YAMAMOTO. MEN'S FALL 2024 - PARIS FASHION WEEK.

 

...Yamamoto is now 80 years old, steadily showing his collections of the last Four decades, with every season at Paris Fashion Week.  The subtle and often poetic elements of Yamamoto have shone through, very much in tune with a Japanese ethic within its humble and meditative process.  Yamamoto has slowed down the runway presence, into a calm and detached way.  Pacing an acceptance, that we all live from past to present.  However for his Fall 2024 collection, the painted grey hairlines on the young models are not there, rather he has added older models with the younger generation.  While, in lieu of his Y-3 collections, which are aimed at 20 somethings, the Yamamoto stylisation only offers to mature the look of a person coming of age.  There is, when Yamamoto is not tweaking with their looks, a paradoxical imprint to his styles, a slight clash of aesthetics.  And one could even say, overall the collection seems out of place.  As Yamamoto's styles have not changed much over 40 years, the wartorn and aged look of the clothing does not match the models wearing them.  Hence the older models, collaborators and celebrities dear to Yamamoto, intermixed throughout the runway presentation.  So, it does feel like a clash of dualities.

Yamamoto's Fall 2024 array, within it mastery of its aging imprint, maintains the draped tailored and the iconic Avant-garde looks, which has been the epitome of inspiration for so many designers.  That, over the timeline of the early 2000s, when the worn, exposed stitching, fine wools and linen in its drapey, layered affair, reached a pinnacle in 2015, and has since declined..."

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Full review: chiasmusmagazine.blogspot.com/2024/02/yohji-yamamoto-mens-fall-2024-paris.html

(A.Glass 2024)