EXCERPT: YOHJI YAMAMOTO. MEN'S FALL 2024 - PARIS FASHION WEEK.

 


"...Yamamoto's Fall 2024 array, within it mastery of its aging imprint, maintains the draped tailored and the iconic Avant-garde looks, which has been the epitome of inspiration for so many designers.  That, over the timeline of the early 2000s, when the worn, exposed stitching, fine wools and linen in its drapey, layered affair, reached a pinnacle in 2015, and has since declined.  As the costs of becoming an aspiring fashion designer in a neo-inflated world are now embedded as a fact of life.  So, in turn are the expenses of materials and production, which have priced out aspiration and unfortunately the multinational 'sportswear' conglomerates has been priced in, hence all the collaboration deals that have occured over the last Ten years.  The individualist aspect of fashion design could be at the cusp of extinction. 


And I view Yamamoto's shows as essentially a story about him, the motifs and prints on the clothing, with his name, in some cases written in a comical way, seen frequently on the designs, as have been images of him in reflection of the youthful models.  That it be his own homage, to a template that he had created over the course of his illustrious career.  So, one could be forgiven by saying that Yamamoto is self serving his own take on fashion, in the sense that it began with him, and it will end with him.  Which, in its spiritualist way of looking at Yamamoto's latest collection, there maybe no legacy thereafter.

Clothing and its aesthetics, like everything else, must fade and then perish.  The attempt in its early manifestations of the Avant-garde, in which Yamamoto was one of the key components, created an impression of the worn and weather beaten look.   A defining element of the human condition, to challenge the erosion of time.  To know how true that is, is to accept and never take it for granted.

A beautiful collection from Yohji Yamamoto.


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