EXCERPT: YOHJI YAMAMOTO. MEN'S FALL 2024 - PARIS FASHION WEEK
"...I have always been aware of Yohji Yamamoto, as some of the more stylized goths of the 1980s were able to purchase his clothing, and it was the allure of black which was very much a Yamamoto imprint, when his first collection was revealed in 1977 at Paris Fashion week. Then in 1982 with his former partner Rei Kawakubo of COMME des GARÇONS fame, revealed their "Black" collection, in which the Fashion press at the time, in an offhand and possibly derogatory manner, labeled the collection as "Hiroshima Chic". Yet, the irony, in light of the peak of the Cold War with Russia in the 80s, we could have all been Hiroshima Chic. Cool heads prevailed. But, alas it seems that we are back there again.
My first review of Yamamoto's collection was his Y-3 collaboration with Adidas at New York Fashion week in 2013, ten years ago. My review was short, sweet and to the point. And after all these years, I have looked back over the photos of the 2013 show and noticed the slightly grey tint textured onto some of the model's hairlines. Mostly around the temples and scalp. And now when I think about it, a decade later after reviewing many of Yamamoto signature label shows and noticing that the grey tint in some cases, has covered most of the hairline on the runway models. I now get what Yamamoto was implying with the youthful looks of his models. We all age..."
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(A.Glass 2024)
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