EXCERPT: SAINT LAURENT. RESORT 2024 - PARIS FASHION WEEK.
"Anthony Vaccarello resumes his familiarity and love for the 1970s and early 1980s timeline in all of its hedonistic glory, reinvigorating the Saint Laurent label, as a channeling aesthetic of the said eras. Noted in my Fall 2023 review, he has conjured the spirits of the early 1980s incorporating the sleeker, and more defined elements of 80s power dressing. Reliving the benchmark of success and sex in its epicure kinship, which may or may not have achieved that desired outcome, yet he has paid homage to its reflection. And for Vaccarello's Resort 2024 lookbook, there are elements of 70s minimalism mixed with Donna Karan's quintessential minimalist 1985 capsule collection. So, the color palette of Vaccarello's latest styles reflects those dulled neutral tones within its interchangeable array.
I did also note a coldness to his 2023 Fall collection, to which the Resort lookbook also delivers the same cold attributes, portraying a junction point between Vaccarello's counterculture interest of the 1960s and 1970s, as the sexual liberation gave rise to new found hedonism, and his experimentation of the early to mid 1980s, particularly the manifestation of the ambitiousness of greed that aspects of late 20th Century society entailed. At least as a divisive element, before everyone got greedy in the early 2000s ala mortgages and DVD players. And it was that clear distinction between wealthy and poor throughout the 1980s, that also heralded a narcissistic charm to the said timeline..."
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(A.Glass 2024)
Fall 2024 review soon.
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