EXCERPT: BALENCIAGA. SPRING 2025 - SHANGHAI




"...Did Demna's latest array evoke any worthwhile aspects?  Partially.  Apart from the setting, which looked akin to a dystopic backdrop with its Shanghai skyscraper laden skyline, and Blade Runner esque climate change of perpetual rainfall.  To which the fictional premise would make a worthwhile story, despite the fact that reality is actually more interesting, with a Chinese government who encouraged hyper consumption for its citizens, while mixed with authoritarianism, is as close to a science fiction story you could get.  Demna's ragtag collective of models, which look like they've stepped out of a Eastern European underground rave, have been toned back this time, interfused with mostly Chinese models.  The show reflected a tension, which I don't think was deliberate.  No one looks comfortable, with the persistent rain and degrees of impracticality of some of the attire; note the extreme heeled boots.

The collection literally looks washed out, messy and out of place.  I don't think anyone is under the illusion that China and America won't be at war one day.  And Demna's hyperreal Balenciaga seems to be losing traction, even if it does appear, as mentioned earlier, overtly serious and fumbled." 

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Full review:  Balenciaga.  Spring 2025 - Shanghai

(A. Glass 2024) 

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