EXCERPT: RICK OWENS. MENSWEAR SPRING 2025 - PARIS FASHION WEEK

 

"...Owens collections to date have been no less than a visionary horror show, yet as a reviewer of over a decade of Owens's show pieces, the contrarian aspects of his cult like fixtures have revealed elements of pacification, maybe the need for a structural identity. 

Which, even in Doom, holds an appeal.  The spiritual foundation of reverence, that is found in most theocratic religions.  Tombs, and brooding structures, from the Egyptian pyramids, to the ancient Greek and Roman cities, all pay homage to the omnipotence, as mere mortals.  Owens, after using his and Lamy's home in Paris for his Fall menswear, and Ready-to-Wear 2024 collections, for his Spring 2025 array, has returned to his beloved Palais de Tokyo.  A 1937 monolith, designed in classic Art Deco style, which very much conjures that post World War One romanticism within its Temple like presence.

Owens has explored this historic template in countless runway shows over his Parsian based tenure, as one of the last of standing independent fashion designers.  To which his playing around with timelines, more so his Los Angeles roots, where in 2020 I wrote an article for a London Fashion magazine, documenting Owens rise to fame from L.A.'s Hollywood Boulevard in the mid to late 1990s to his first show at New York Fashion week in 2002..."

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(A.Glass 2024)

Full review: chiasmusmagazine.blogspot.com/2024/06/rick-owens-menswear-spring-2025-paris.html