Excerpt: Saint Laurent. Spring 2025 - Paris Fashion Week

"...Vaccarello's Spring 2025 collection went from his famed eros and amourous benchmarks of the feminine, to the masculine of late 1970s Yves Saint Laurent powersuits, and then, towards the end of the collection, back to the amatory.  In a strange dichotomy of reinvigorating the epicureanism of Fifty years ago, which conked out in the stagnated and entrepreneurial wishfulness of the 1990s.  But, one cannot deny, despite the fusing of timelines in an ad hoc way, Vaccarello's ability to craft his Saint Laurent imprint with precision.   The collection is striking, but not ground breaking.  His sexulalized elements of the sheer, boho chic inspired lace cocktail dresses are on display.  When it was infidelity, Wall Street ambitions, Manhattan cocktails and the ease of a one-night-stand.  With the beginning of the collection, representing the female models adorning the late Yves Saint Laurent's own stylized ensemble, that he wore when he was alive.  Including his heavy set thick rimmed glasses, yet Vaccarello has sidestepped Yves liberating "Le Smoking" evening wear suits for women, that he revealed to Paris in the mid 1960s.  Instead, it is Yves own post-French colonialism style of the heavy laden camel and grey colorless suits, as Yves himself grew up in Algeria, and wore his famous attire and glasses up until his passing in 2008.

Overall there was an odd paradoxical aspect to this collection.  As mentioned, with its fumbling attempt at fusing the said eras, while reanimating the late Yves Saint Laurent's own style, which appears hastily put together, even with Vaccarello's precision.  Dare I say, Vaccarello's latest collection feels haunted and lost?"

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Full review:  chiasmusmagazine.blogspot.com/2024/09/saint-laurent-spring-2025-paris-fashion.html 

(A.Glass 2024)