Blumarine. Fall, Winter 2025, 2026 - Milan Fashion Week.

U.K. designer David Koma has now morphed across to Blumarine as its new Creative Director whilst maintaining his own signature brand to which I have covered a many of Koma's runway and lookbook showings, this will be the first Bluemarine review, and also his debut for the Italian brand.  And Koma is certainly no stranger to his version of the hedonistic cue, of eros wrapped within the amorous, a celebration of feminine sexuality and freedom, to which he has portrayed with a focused impression over the years.  So, his Bluemarine debut, would come as no surprise, yet Koma has notched up the carnal, to its darkened mystique like no tomorrow.

His Fall/Winter 2026, 2025 collection hits like an amatory wave, less subtle and suggestive as his signature label styles, for Blumarine it is all about the expressive in a no holds barred sensuality.  Which is very much needed, as the conservative imprint of the last 10 years, has now embedded itself as a proto-fascist overshadow onto our lifestyles, and rebellion, as mentioned, maybe sexual freedom that'll be a call sign for a renewed counterculture.  And the feminine rules this realm.

Koma's sultry eclipse under the Bluemarine banner, sets that femme fatale mix, that being the psychosexual of that mythical hypersexual woman, not because of her moods, and not ruled by biology.  She enjoys sex.  Can you handle that?  A rarity under patriarchal control, and theocratic oppression.  She is Lilith personified.  A powerhouse of passion, a conduit of energy, yearning to be released.   Silk, lace, leather, denim, faux fur, miniskirts, sheer, revealing.  Between the duality of black and white, and the foundation of red, the colour of our lifeforce, this is Koma's ode to the libidinous, which is the nonduality.  We can all enjoy. 

Be free, be liberated.  Make love, at the end of the world.

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(A.Glass 2025)