Peter Do. Fall 2022 - New York Fashion Week
I have always admired Peter Do's collections, he is possibly one the most precision fashion designers working in the industry today, showcasing some of the finest tailored and well constructed clothing I have seen to date. Leaning more towards a modernist fixture with his styles, whilst at the same time portraying an even mix of the experimental and avant-garde edge for his signature label. But, it is his formal suiting styles that have always held true, from Do's exactitude of his blazer cuts and the beautifully crafted fine wool pleated skirts, as a defining revamp of the Wall Street vixen, bringing back the 1980's stylized power suit to which Do has excelled in prior seasons and has been set onto his Fall 2022 template.
The latest collection does evoke a more focused deconstruction viewpoint of his formal styles, with some of the cleaner modernist cuts,being replaced by asymmetrical looks. With its exposed stitching and pattern work on some of the pieces, Do has obviously been inspired by John Galliano's Maison Margiela tenure of breaking down the formal and suiting styles by, literally, turning them inside out. Yet, Do restyling his suiting arrays hasn't created a patchwork of looks that Galliano is famous for, rather he has ensured that his precision and benchmark styles are paramount as the brands mainstay aesthetic.
As mentioned, the 1980's - esque power suit is evident throughout the Fall collection, reanimating the infamous prurient yuppie that the 80's were renown for, be it that divisive line between status and power, mixed with a transfixed desire to make it in the Big Apple. This collection does feel very New York City, albeit a simulacrum of past romanticism of an era that heralded far more interesting dynamics, before the onslaught of 1990's digital entrepreneurialism and aspirating 15 minutes famers via the social media feedback loops. In its inundation of expectations born out of a digitalized 90s and 2000's has, although not internationally, diluted creativity. Not everyone can be a winner. And was the 1980's that brutally revealed those boulevards of broken dreams.
Still, I wonder if Do plunging his latest collection into a 80's stylization, works against his breaking down of its formal attire. The Fall 2022 certainly isn't rigid or overtly modernist, however with is predominately gray, black and whites, the achromatic keeps the styles austere and blunt, but it does feel cold, with various paradoxical moments. Maybe in reflection to the times we are all living in, the uncertainty of our society. Yet, as we look to the past for stability and ideas, we may only find hungry ghosts.
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