From the CHIASMUS ARCHIVE: June 29, 2019. BORIS SABERI BIDJAN. MEN'S SPRING 2020 - PARIS FASHION WEEK .

  (Images from the designer and the public domain. Credited to the photographer/company where applicable: Boris Saberi Bidjan)

I have been reviewing Boris Bidjan Saberi Paris shows for over 4 years now, he is undoubtedly one of the key components of contemporary Avant-garde fashion scene, but with a vastly more sophisticated touch.  Drawing from, as noted from past observations, science fiction, movies and costume design.  But to define Bidjan Saberi as solely a fashion designer who appeals to selective audiences would be understating his adeptness and talent.  

For his Spring 2020 presentation, he opted for a studio setting rather than the runway, which is understandable, overheads for independent designers are climbing despite sales being up. With business and trade cycles not only out of whack, but through their absurd surrealism, in what is deemed a globalized world, have ensured that extreme uncertainty reigns.  The individual creative, to stay ahead, has to endure.  For many, this can't be maintained to the point they say goodbye and throw in the towel.  It is admirable when a designer such as Bidjan, with a recognized following and a collaborative deal with Salomon outdoor footwear, saying that he was close to leaving the industry.  He'd had enough.  A creative burnout, exhausted by the frustration to guess the next season for future buyers, to which he asked him self, “How does this go on?” And if Zen can lead a hand here, it teaches you one thing, there is only the beginners mind.  The open mind, instinctively some people get it, others believing they have achieved all the expertise needed – have very little room to experiment and learn. Thankfully Bidjan Saberi has chosen to relearn and go back to the beginner mind and start again. Stating, “...I have to do amazing garments, back to where I started...” 

So, when a designer that has expanded collections from bags to footwear, splitting it also into a sub-brand and essentially lifting, such as Bidjan Saberi's signature label, to a pinnacle – it is, since he has reset the original idea of his brand, simplistically adhering its return to the limited variants of Bidjan Saberi coats.  Titling his small collection as “bioindementary”.   Allowing the coat to fuse into dual styles, via technical stitch work and seam taped leather, to become a reversible fixture, in tune with Bidjan Saberi basic manifestation of modular style clothing.  But, only as single pieces, rather than mass production.  This is Bidjan Saberi slowing down his brand, compressing the template to represent a limited range.  It is up to the consumer now to buy smart, utilizing the few pieces on display and maintaining their durability. 

Distressed leather and suede with Gabardine inserts, simple and hardy, but there is intricacy here, Bidjan Saberi has attached details within his skills of fine tailoring.  Crafted and honed, yet humble in its creation. 

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A.Glass 2019