Undercover. Resort 2023
Jun Takahashi's whimsical and at times dark inclinations for his brand Undercover, have allways facinated me. Having reviewed five of his shows over the years, with each one holding an intriguing uniqueness with its very Japanese idealism of aesthetics, that Yūgō (fusion) of eastern and western ethos, to which the Land of the Rising Sun does so well. Takahashi is that quintessential Japanese designer, who has been able to instill his own spirit into his designs and as mentioned, he reflects both the whimsical and darkness in his designs. And as a craft of defining fashion in all of its paradoxes, Takahashi's Undercover attains that duality.
Resort 2023 is more of a tailored affair, with Takahashi's quirkiness remaining intact, the collection spans 26 pieces, representing a vastly more eros perspective as opposed to earlier seasons, which was an on-again-and-off-again trend that came out of 2019 pre the pandemic. That has struggled to find a footing amidst all the doom and gloom, with some designers of the more extreme avant-garde leaning towards styles that have combined the two; ala the end of the world and all of its sex appeal. Takahashi's lookbooks pre and post COVID-19 have held a childlike and dreamscape innocence, although his latest collection is more pensive than his previous arrays. Which could be in retrospection of the recent and current turmoil that our world is facing at this point in history, showing up in fashion mixed with the amorous.
There are some beautifully cut and presented styles for Takahashi's newest ensemble for Undercover, showcasing his eye for detail, with cotton drapy shirts, wool blended wide hemmed pants. Representing his punk aesthetics from Undercover's Fall 2023 runway show in Tokyo of this year, which have shone through. So there are dashes of tartan, pleated skirts and the thrift mix and match styles that complete the lookbook. A simple, yet poignant collection from Takahashi, although I look forward to his elaborate and complex collections in seasons to follow.
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