From the CHIASMUS archives: Boris Bidjan Saberi men’s Spring Summer 2018 – Paris Fashion Week. June 25, 2017 (A. Glass 2017)

 

(Images: Kim Weston Arnold / Indigital.tv via Vogue.com.  Used in promotion of Boris Bidjan Saberi)

The quintessential  ‘conceptual ‘ fashion designer is Boris Bidjan Saberi.  A clear devotee of science fiction concept art transfused onto a runway dynamic, that can be seen distinctly in all of his prior collections.  Which, in my opinion, cannot be faulted – as it is a distinction that has not be rivaled by other designers.  Please refer to my previous reviews of past Saberi’s Fashion shows.  It is an important visual discernment if you are a observer of fashion,  that when a designer begins to change direction, sometimes too rapidly, they can break the momentum with their ideas and what they’re trying to portray to the viewer.  Saberi has maintained that focus in his unique signature brand of aesthetics.

Boris Bidjan Saberi men’s Spring Summer 2018 in turn is very similar to his SS2017 titled “Post-Humanism” but not as stripped down, despite the heat of a Parisian summer, rather Saberi’s SS2018 is heavily layered, with it’s insulated styles.  Once again, as mentioned in my SS2017 review, this current collection is more akin to costume design ala science fiction movie influenced.  Also noted, as with other avant-garde collections for men’s Spring Summer 2018, there has been more of a ‘utility worker’  inspired trend as far as newer styles being injected into this year’s fashion week.  Being a science fiction fan (and writer) I can see the influences for Saberi’s SS2018 collection, one could speculate on his direct inspiration, without pinpointing to a specific.  However Saberi (as seen, once again, in tune with the other avant-garde SS2018 designers) has maintained a militaristic cue –  utilizing the adaptive aspects of camouflage in fashion design.

Heavy cottons, canvas, wool, linen and leathers, not quite the materials for a Spring Summer collection, still, with the models geared up and layered, ready to work in our future cities –  while the Earth’s climate finally goes critical.  Protected and camouflaged by reinforced jackets and heavily knotted wool vests.  Stylishly draped and rugged clothing, as a backdrop, for the post-collapse of broken and retrofitted infrastructure.    The color palette is mustard yellows, washed out and distressed browns, greens with elements of sunglow inspired orange.