EXCERPT: RICK OWENS FALL 2023 - PARIS FASHION WEEK

"...the passing hopefulness Owens's Spring 2022 men's collection on the beaches of Lido, have returned to his dark embrace.  As noted with my women's Fall 2022 review, the hand held smoke machines and overall stygian performance seemed to absorb the avant-garde designer.   The men's Spring 2023 collection  reaffirmed Owens's take on gloom and excess, which was enhanced by his masculine arrays rather than the female collections; as they continue to hold cult like sibyl prophecies of the end-of-the-world.  

However, it is the Fall 2023 collection which is unyielding in its intensity of portraying the male,  it feels a lot aggressive and warlike.  With models adored in facial corpse paint, exaggerated shoulder pads and knee high boots. which have morphed from the late Larry LeGaspi's influence on Owens's earlier collections, to Owens own take on the combat boot.  There is a lot more bondage inspired and dystopian concepts to his Fall styles, with a harsher, worn-torn look, moving away from Owens's more crafted and gothic styles of previous showings.  His latest collection reflects very much a militarized imprint, with tactical gloves, flak jackets and protective insulation.  Suitable for cities which have become urban battle grounds.

Attire for a society that has already collapsed.  Owens's antitheses could be that need to face the destruction.  So we can be redefined by it." 

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Full review: https://chiasmusmagazine.blogspot.com/2023/01/rick-owens-fall-2023-paris-fashion-week.html  

(A.Glass 2023)