Moncler. Fall 2023 - London Fashion Week
There is an impractically to the puffer jacket, unless you live in artic sub-zero temperatures and are about to climb snow capped mountains. Then it would be less of fashion statement and more of a practical application. The Northern Hemisphere just had one of the mildest winters on record ala climate change, which was not anticipated. With the war ranging in Ukraine by Russian aggression. Western Europe that relies on Russia natural gas stockpiled in ready for Winter and now are in surplus of millions of cubic tons of gas. Thus, nature had cast a warning that we maybe all be about to endure harsher summers and more drought like conditions throughout the years. So where does Moncler's puffer jacket stand in all this?
As noted in my Fall 2020 review of Monlcer's 'Genius' collection, Remo Ruffini the owner of Moncler, after the last pandemic, which has seemingly abated. Fingers crossed, right? Ruffini has moved back into his elaborate stage shows that are aimed and giving the Moncler brand a stand out fixture as a company that, despite its public holdings being majority owned by a slew of investment banks and the mega fund Blackrock, is attempting to corner the streetwear/mountaineering/outdoor market with its crisscrossing of designer and celebrity collaborations. More importantly the selling of the Moncler puffer jacket. And yes, the brand has a star studded following, yet the exclusive party which was held once again as an all inspiring event, with DJ's, singers and art installations, is very much directed at that cornered 'puffer jacket' market that probably doesn't exist. Anymore or less as a refection of celebritydom as a VIP invite and Moncler redefining the puffer jacket as a fashion accessory. So, the absurdity of driving these Moncler events as an over the top party, seems fitting as the clothing and associated designs themselves fall firmly within that absurd imprint.
From the Mercedes Benz x Moncler collaboration is as ridicules as it looks, titled 'Mondo-G' portraying a 4WD Mercedes Benz, adored in a silver puffer jacket, covering its wheels and exterior. With its massive zip and all. To the other various other Moncler installations, that were all created with the theme of the iconic Moncler puffer; audio booths by Jay-Z, little robots modeling Moncler attire within a sterile space by Japanese musician Hiroshi Fujiwara. Rick Owens's puffy ladened sleeping pods, designed in its superfluity to sleep through the next crisis.
And finally the actual Moncler jackets and attire, but when looked at staged against the overall spectacle seemed to, ironically, become absorbed by its own puffed out exterior. Like an implosion under its own weight of excess.
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(A.Glass 2023)
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