Excerpt: VETEMENTS. SPRING READY-TO-WEAR 2023 - PARIS FASHION WEEK

 

"...Vetements Spring 2023 retains that tailored affair to which Guram has tweaked as his stalwart aesthetic, however for his latest collection he has inserted a rawer and more intensified styling to the kitsch arrays, reminiscent of earlier Vetements collections.  Showcasing a seriousness to the looks, to which Guram, rather than solely representing his antifashion statement, has drawn from cyber-punk stylization and bespoke doomsday visualizations to complete a 63 piece collection which also incorporates, towards the end of looks presented, a ghost like apparitions of that growing cult of appeal, as a reminder that the end times are upon us. 

As I discussed in my Rick Owens Spring 2023 review.  Does the celebrating the end, metaphorically, have to be completely a nihilistic idealism?  Can it also represent a rebirth?  A new beginning?   Guram isn't trying to conceptualize a philosophy anymore than maintain Vetements exclusivity as a luxury brand.  But, Guram's shrewdness as the Vetements creative director is also represented by his Eastern European background as child growing up in Georgia, the calamity that our word faces, in light of Ukraine under attack by Russia, could well and truly be the start of new Cold War and the threat of nuclear annihilation."

___

Full review: chiasmusmagazine.blogspot.com/2022/07/vetements-spring-ready-to-wear-2023.html?m=1

(A.Glass 2022)

Spring 2024 review soon.