EXCERPT: SAINT LAURENT. FALL READY-TO-WEAR 2023 - PARIS FASHION WEEK. Model: Mila Van Eeten

 

(Images:  Models.com)

"Anthony Vaccarello's love affair with the 1980's esque hedonism continues on.   And there is no doubt that there was indeed a sweet spot of creativity, open sexuality and ambition before everything decades later became digitized and over exaggerated.  With 80's entrepreneurism was more akin to gamble than a possibility of being a commercial nobody on social media feeds.   It was an era that was by no means lead by self deception, despite it being being under the shadow of nuclear annihilation, a dreadful virus and Western cities which were in shambles before the cross flows of globalized markets lead to prefab gentrification.   Hence, why in popular culture many designers, musicians artists are still drawing from that period of 1975 through to 1988.  It felt more real.

Yet, as reminded in the numerous of reviews that I have written of  Vaccarello's Saint Laurent, the romanticism of the late 1970's and early to mid 80's is also bedimmed with fame and misfortune, drug abuse and that unmistakable boulevard of broken dreams - to which many were consumed.   However, Vaccarello's Fall 2023 collection has moved on from those fallen stars in their hopes and aspirations, planting itself into the ruthless side of the late 1980's; be it corporate raiders and the elevation of sexual power, played out in numerous Hollywood productions of that time. It was shoulder pads and power suits and the beginning of the rise of the super model as we all entered the 1990's..." 

Full review:  chiasmusmagazine.blogspot.com/2023/03/saint-laurent-fall-ready-to-wear-2023.html

(A.Glass 2023)