From the Chiasmus archive: May, 17th 2022 "GUCCI. RESORT 2023"

I have just completed my 6th paperback novel titled "Evenfall of the Helical", which is my most personal, spiritual, dark and powerful book to date, melding my interest in metaphysics, the occult and science.  From Hell State to Healing and its Realizations, incorporating all my studies of left hand Eastern spiritual teachings from iconoclastic Zen to Esoteric Buddhism, through to Western symbols of occultism.  Whether this is seen as a plug or not, I won't describe the book in anymore detail as the publication, although it is available to purchase, has to settle into its own resonation, which I can't disturb until it's ready for further discussion.  However, I was surprised to see that Gucci's Alessandro Michele exploring some of the said themes with his Resort 2023 collection titled "Cosmogonies". 

Michele has been drawn to and inspired to show his latest collection within the mystical 13th Century Citadel: Castel del Monte, commissioned by the Holy Roman Emperor Frederick II and completed by his death in 1250.    This seemingly out of place Castle that resides in the southern Italian region of Puglia, as it sits atop of a hill surrounded by grass and scattered olive trees.  Filled with octagonal shapes with its eight prominent towers and the number 8 as a geometry theme throughout the castle, to which on its side, eight as a numeral represents infinity.  And what is intriguing with Michele's choice for hosting a Gucci show within the Castel del Monte grounds, is its connection to the mathematician Leonardo Fibonacci, who was a friend of Frederick II, an emperor that had a keen interest in numbers, astronomy and astrology.   It is said that one of the mysterious elements of the castle, is at certain times during the day, shadows inside the courtyard will reveal Fibonacci's 'Golden Ratio'.

I have reviewed many of Michele's Gucci past shows and have noted his interest in fusing and redefining timelines, notable was Michele's "Ouverture of Something That Never Ended Collection" Spring 2021 collection, as mentioned in my review, he utilized the term Eschatology as a description for the Spring 2021 styles, which means the end in most monotheistic religions.  In science, the word assists in explaining the Sun's life cycle, when the Earth will eventually be consumed by the Sun in six billion years.   So, Michele does work best when he explores his own uniquely spiritual and esoteric side, whilst grounding his collections into the bedrock of humanistic mythology.

Michele's Resort 2023 showing is by far the most occultist and sexually charged collection of his seven year tenure with Gucci, drawing from themes of oracles and witches.  Which maybe a trend forming in 2022, in its representation of embracing the power of the feminine and its intuitive divination.   Crafting a flowing array of sheer and delicate ensembles, miniskirts and cocktail dresses whilst incorporating his thrift shop at the end-of-the-world styles.   Although interestingly, he has defined the men's collection as a distinctive overlay, to which the women's styles maintain their necromancer appeal.

The color palette stays within Michele's vivid spectrum, with his use of yellow, red, blues and purples as a homage to Gucci's 1970's opulence, whilst more importantly, showcasing the collection in its gothic overture and ritual of sex magic. 

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(A.Glass 2022) 

All my Gucci reviews with Alessandro Michele, when he was at the helm:  chiasmusmagazine.blogspot.com/search/label/Gucci