From the Chiasmus archive: June 25th, 2018. "Y-3 MEN’S SPRING 2019 – PARIS FASHION WEEK"
I have been reviewing the various Y-3 shows for awhile now, if you weren't already aware, it is a brand formed under the auspiciousness of Adidas in collaboration with Yohji Yamamoto. Which at times seems to be visually a tenuous arrangement beneath the corporate banner, a creative tug of war with a multinational sportswear company and a master designer. One holds the paycheck, the other the name. An agreement to source a trend and sell into the younger markets. Which, Adidas has utilized as their main selling point. Youthful attire with a designer touch. That on the most part, the younger generation, unless tapped in with disposable credit cards. Probably could not afford the jackets, pants and shoes that Y-3 has to offer. And we have no idea how long the Asian buying markets (designer), for clothes, will last until they finally tap out. Whether Yamamoto is aware of this is hard to say and the corporate angle of forecasts, consumer charts and market trends. Is an 'analysis' to mostly please creditors and investors that the company is on the money. At the end of the day. Risk is real time.
Y-3's men's Spring 2019 collection despite it being fitted over very young looking models. The styles are influx of previous Y-3 seasons and concepts, which overtime, should have matured Yamamoto's forte within the Y-3 dynamic. Yet, it reflects the opposite. A large array of immature styling sourced from the rehash work of the past. It is only a handful of female inspired outfits that lift the collection out of the man/child stylization, but only just. The billowing skirts, sports/street outwear, with layered textures, hints of Yamaoto's brilliance and eye as a master cutter. But as mentioned, these styles set against the duality of black and white, hold more of immaturity than evolving outwear or sports wear out of confused University graduate look.
The Gortex designed for cyclists called Shakedry is the main fabric of choice for the latest Y-3 collection, an extremely light, breathable, waterproof and very expensive synthetic material.
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(A.Glass 2018)
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