from the Chiasmus archive: "Maison Margiela – Couture Spring 2017" February 6th 2017 by CHIASMUS MAGAZINE BLOG

(Images: Maison Margiela 2017)

Through ambiguity and it’s deconstruction of ideas to recreate a visionary concept is not learned overnight. This is a practice within it’s precision of understanding how to develop innovation.  John Galliano is a masterful fashion designer.  His 2015 return to fashion as the creative director for Maison Margiela, shows the continuation and resumption of greatness.  A flawless artisan collection, brought forward into a time where originality has become a rare commodity.

Galliano’s Fall 2017 collection for Maison Margiela is Haute couture by it’s definition.  The subtle, yet fragmented styling.  Balanced precariously on the models.  A craft-work of distorted cuts, fitted  beautifully.  Surrealism, yet simplicity in it’s futurist presentation, as described by Galliano himself, the ambiguous theme was centered around the modern networks of communication.  The reliance on social media and it’s digital channels.  A commentary on what it does to information, in particular  a culture that has disconnected from social dynamics, to be replaced by the electronic medium.  How will that change us?

There is a gentle critique of the newer generations reliance on the digitalized age.   Shown as blurred imprints, from makeup and prints.  Altered states though manipulation of images.  A prefabrication of the physicality, which, in reality cannot be altered.  Caught in a voyeuristic impression.  To be viewed as an image over time.

Traditional wool coats, re-cut and shaped.  Draped dresses,  silk over/underlays.  Standing out for Maison Margiela’s Spring couture collection is a surrealistic woman’s face, the image bold and dreamlike – it’s portrayal reminiscent of an Edouard Manet painting as it is the eyes that reveal sadness.  An elegant, defined and truly astonishing collection.  Yes, a representation of a possible future, but not a blunt and dark dystopia.  More of a realization that one should not hate the past, rather we should remodel and use it’s prior qualities.  Which in the end we may create something unique and purposeful.

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(A.Glass 2017)