From the chiasmus archive: "Maison Margiela. Fall 2021 Couture" July 12th, 2021. CHIASMUS MAGAZINE BLOG
Pandemics usually have the same effect on a society beyond the infections, it is the sociological dynamics that are challenged by these micro entities and over the course of an outbreak, what is unseen creates a disbelief. Viruses are spread in denial. This is age old dilemma of the human condition, which shows up in our overconfidence. From the anti-mask rallies during the Spanish Flu of 1918 that ended up killing over 500 million worldwide, through to the misinformation and inaction of governments during the AIDS epidemic of the 1980s. It is always, even though it has become a cliché quote, falls down to “Oh no the economy” which, on a basis of a necessary critique, is governments during the COVID-19 crisis with their on and off again shutdowns, whilst playing up and then playing down the severity of the virus. We simply haven’t learned from history, that this unconscious abnormality of nature does what it does best.
Many do however adjust their lives within a pandemic, to which the fashion industry has had to redefine the jubilation of its traditional runway and the many crowds that frequent Fashion Weeks to become a digital only affair. Utilizing creative lookbooks and film inspired clips, designers have experimented with the visuals in promoting their new collections. It is John Galliano, the master story teller of fashion who has, like so many of his prior shows of his illustrious career, seized the opportunity to further elaborate the moving picture and the power that it possess in relaying a story.
I wrote an article in early 2020 for OVERDUE magazine titled, “John Galliano: Rise of the Fallen Angel” detailing Galliano’s rise and fall and rise of a fashion designer that certainly has portrayed the melodramas of life. Bringing together theatrical settings in delivering his Couture pieces, he is no stranger to controversy. Yet his redemption holds a mirrored sentiment with his tenure as creative director of Maison Margeila, Galliano has revealed for his Fall 2021 Couture a deeper introspection of the pandemics and their effects on society, to which he has created a short film called “A Folk Horror Tale” with French filmmaker Olivier Dahan. Does it work as aesthetic selling point? Well, that is up to the viewer and critic to discern, however fashion should also show darker elements of a society, because culture, with it ups and downs does indeed reflect, visually, our materialism. Drawing from the ghosts of a weather beaten Dutch fishing village and the 12th Century recorded fable of the King of England; Cnut the Great showing the arrogance of humanity, by setting up his throne by the sea shore. In an effort to explain to his courtiers of the rising tides which threatened English fishing towns. That he has no power over God. Of course futile mysticism when mixed with ego manifests into the belief of power that a leader can control nature and long behold, we have witnessed this today with the plethora of global leaders that all caught COVID-19 at the height of the pandemic. Most times than not, it is science that holds that light and therefor a defiance against the, at times, brutal elements of nature to offset superstition. In the meantime, alas, it is always the poor citizens who put faith in the mortal fools. And usually at our peril.
A beautifully shot film, with Galliano at the beginning explaining the process of designing the collection, with the remainder cut into lookbook segments representing each of Galliano’s styles. Portraying his ability to utilize a raw beauty with their stylized unfinished textures that he has mastered over the many years as a fashion designer. The spectra like images of the fishing village caught between the sliver of past and present timelines, yet, this is no costume show. Rather, the styles represent a contemporary look merged with their historic references.
Truly, a masterful presentation.
(A. Glass 2021)
Maison Margiela Spring 2024 Couture review soon.
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