from the chiasmus archive: "Saint Laurent. Spring 2023 - Paris Fashion Week."

 

"Anthony Vaccarello has been able to master the subtle and the blunt amatory of the feminine, now seven years as the creative director of Saint Laurent and with the 2020 pandemic somewhat behind us,  Vaccarello's return to the runway, was his Fall 2022 show in Paris in March.  Further accentuating his crafting of the Ives Saint Laurent legacy, reaffirming the Belgium designer's decadent sleekness to the luxury brand, whilst instilling Saint Laurent's hedonistic overtures.   And there is no doubting the lavishness of the Saint Laurent shows, with the Spring 2023 being of no exception to its own arabesque opulence, once again utilizing the Parisian fixture of its Eiffel Tower as the backdrop.  Vaccarello has taken the runway setting to new highs, despite the calamity and turmoil in the world, his latest Saint Laurent show is a benchmark to its extravagance.

But, it is Vaccarello's criss crossing times lines of the last 40 years to which I find fascinating of a designer, as noted in many of my reviews since his tenure, who has an ardent fixation on the late 1970s and early 1980s aesthetics, whilst playing with 1960s counterculture.  Which defined the sexual liberation, as an important backlash against conservative values of the 1950s, later morphing into an all out hedonism of the 1970s.  And there is an important element in all Vaccarello's dynamism, that one should be aware of, that being the reflected simulacrum of his hyperreal template..."

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(A.Glass 2022)

Full review:  chiasmusmagazine.blogspot.com/2022/09/saint-laurent-spring-2023-paris-fashion.html