Excerpt: Heliot Emil. Spring 2025 - Paris Fashion Week

"...The is no doubt that Julius is offering, as an aesthetic, a dark and dystopic future, which is probably correct in its visualization.  With stylized ensembles, although not entirely original, as these looks were in circulation as the avant-garde trend of the early 2000s through to 2018.  Notably, it was Yohji Yamamoto's Adidas collaboration known as Y-3, which assisted being labeled in the media as the Health/Sports Goth dystopia look, which reached a crescendo when things, society wise, were indeed falling apart pre the 2020 Pandmeic.  Now, it is like a Sci-Fi script of inflation, genocidal warfare and Fascism in politics gaining in popularity.  

This does pose a challenge to designers and the creative.  That the Future is now, and despite illusionary distractions via social media, we are very much heading towards our 11th hour and for Julius Fall 2024 collection, he has incorporated Shieldex, an anti radiation fabric, and with Spring 2025 collection, although lighter in its material base, still showcases Julius's interest in the protective, encased look, yet with aspects of it being stripped back and bare.

Offering technological protection and devastation, under a raw and unforgiving backdrop, the Spring Heliot Emil 2025 collection feels grim and unyielding."    

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Full Review: chiasmusmagazine.blogspot.com/2024/11/heliot-emil-spring-2025-paris-fashion.html 

(A.Glass 2024)