Excerpt: Mugler. Spring 2025 - Paris Fashion Week

 ...Cadwallader's interest in dissecting flowers, and studying their inner workings which was the centrepoint for this collection, and then fusing the dissection onto the human body.  Which, without a scientific perspective, could be seen as a morbidly artistic fetish.  The flower, in its purpose is sacred, with its mystifying details.  

So, does the collection aesthetically work?   It seems less structured than previous showings from Cadwallader, with Mugler's avant-grade evident throughout, hence the multitudes of intricate layering on some of the outfits, and Cadwallader's ubiquitously templated eros, mixed with science fiction overtures.  With elements of militancy attached, which holds true to Cadwallader's anthropocentric cue, of a dominating and controlling theme over nature.  Offering less of the dominatrix, and more aggressively tuned.  With several male models, styled like they are part of a paramilitary unit.  Reminding me of Daniel Lee's militarist revamp of Bottega Veneta, before, (rumored) he fell from grace."

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(A.Glass 2024)

Full review:  chiasmusmagazine.blogspot.com/2024/11/mugler-spring-2025-paris-fashion-week.html