Excerpt: Mugler. Spring 2025 - Paris Fashion Week

 

"...A clue in this process of reshaping a signature label, particularly after the death of the Thierry Mugler, could be from the designer himself when he was alive.  After Mugler changed his name to Manfred, persona and physical body and became reclusive after retirement in 2002.   This could be indicative of what branding means in a materistically driven world.  A good example, is what Balenciaga stands for in today's luxury market, far removed from what Cristóbal Balenciaga would have imagined when he passed away in 1972.

And for Cadwallader's Spring 2025 collection, the American designer, darent I say, has incorporated the Canadian movie maker Cronenberg-esque body horror aspect to the collection, although horror maybe a slightly stronger term in describing the 29 looks, as the styles on display are not a shocking transformation of form per se.  But rather, Cadwallader's interest in dissecting flowers, and studying their inner workings which was the centrepoint for this collection, and then fusing the dissection onto the human body.    Which, without a scientific perspective, could be seen as a morbidly artistic fetish.  The flower, in its purpose is sacred, with its mystifying details..." 

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(A.Glass 2024)

Full review:  chiasmusmagazine.blogspot.com/2024/11/mugler-spring-2025-paris-fashion-week.html