Excerpt: R13. Pre-Fall 2025 - New York City

 

"...yet all within those 1970s and 1980s counterculture stylizations.  However, as mentioned Leba's R13 holds more of an original distinction, even with its homage of yesteryear's rebellious aesthetics.  It feels more akin to Richard Hell's 1970s New York City, nearly 50 years ago, rather than the dawn of the internet.    

There is also a darker flow being represented with Leba's Pre-Fall collection, carrying on with the floral theme from the Spring 2024 lookbook, Leba as inscribed a lot more of his worn torn looks to the collection, with its tougher, heavier set aesthetic, seen with the shearling, bomber and leather jackets. From skull prints, shaggy and unpicked wool crop top jumpers, to the tough feminine eros of distressed looking silk tops and dresses, noted with Leba's ongoing catchphrase for his R13 styles of that ubiquitous  "Fuck you" phrasing, seen on some of the Pre-Fall 2025 styles, derived from that late 1970s hedonistic backlash, 'I dress punk rock sexy, doesn't mean I want to fuck you' attitude.

The youth are cool, when they turn off, drop out and decide to go in the opposite direction.  Even if it is a moment in time.  We await in earnest."

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(A.Glass 2024)

Full review: chiasmusmagazine.blogspot.com/2024/12/r13-pre-fall-2025-new-york-city.html