excerpt: Ann Demeulemeester. Fall 2025 - Paris Fashion Week

 

"...Gallici's latest showing, has some elements that do work, such as the fusion of dark bohemian looks and the vampiric rebel, be it of the dark brooding mysterious stranger, with his spicy sweet eau de parfum, and his lover, equally filled with mystique.  Flowing lace, oversized shirts, faux fur lined open jackets, with ad hoc layering abound.  Gallici has tried to set an effortless flow with this collection, which at times does feel slightly clunky and ill fitted.

Can a designer afford to take a sabbatical, do some Peyote or Nexus, spend time alone, face the darkness, meditate and come back with a fresh set of ideas and concepts?  Would our corporatism/conglomerate leaders allow us to do that?  Maybe it's time we create the alternative, without the incorporated.  Maybe it is time to reject, rather than accept, maybe we should unplug and crash the whole fucking thing.  And find meaning in the sky, the wind and the Earth, while wearing a pair of worn out designer shoes.  Maybe.

Just maybe."

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(A.Glass 2025)

Full review: chiasmusmagazine.blogspot.com/2025/04/ann-demeulemeester-fall-2025-paris.html