excerpt: Ann Demeulemeester. Fall 2025 - Paris Fashion Week

 

"...For Gallici's Fall 2025 collection he has evoked the mid to late 1970s doom stoner looks.  As a rock and roll homage to the many who had descended onto Los Angeles looking for fame and fortune during the 1970s, with many ending up in the boulevard of broken dreams, or wandering off into the desert on a road trip in search of meaning, under the Stars whilst doing LSD.    And in that sense, Gallici has maintained his bluntness with the Ann Demeulemeester stylizations of the last twenty years, which at times his mentor, ex-Ann Demeulemeester designer Sébastien Meunier played around with the blunt to subtle vampiric, misunderstood anti-hero looks.  Yet, his latest collection feels confined, serious and dare I say, confused.  Almost like restless spectras, unable to find their place in the world, which they long to be accepted in.  So, this is not a rebellious array from Gallici, but a simulacrum of, as mentioned, wayward reflections.  What may have lifted the styles on show and offered a renewed perspective, would be more of a defiant look, whilst keeping in tune with those liberative 1960s, 70s styles, or at least an attempt at imagining what the new counterculture may indeed visually become, if there is an influence from the past, and a counterculture is forming on the horizon.  Considering the amount of issues facing us, it may want to materialize very soon..."

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(A.Glass 2025)

Full review: chiasmusmagazine.blogspot.com/2025/04/ann-demeulemeester-fall-2025-paris.html