Excerpt: Ann Demeulemeester. Resort 2026 - Lookbook

 

"...Where the subtle is being replaced with a more lasting impression, and after Gallici's galvanic Fall 2025 collection for Paris Fashion Week, willingly projecting a renewed take on Demeulemeester's early runway shows of the 1990s, when she was one of the first designers to set a precedence for the 2000s avant garde trend, which petered out in 2018, and she later retired in 2020.  But, as mentioned, Gallici has pushed into all back into place, with his original take on Demeulemeester's goth romanticism, which I haven't seen for a long time, that being the early/mid 1970s edgy looks which have surely been missed by a many design teams, sourcing the past for ideas.  The proto-doom rock groups, fans, groupies, occult, witchcraft cults of the 1970s, where the 'dark' hippies did there thing; acid trips, peyote, desert car trips into the unknown, doomsday rituals, Tarot card readings with your favorite witch.  Celebrating the coming thermonuclear apocalypse, whilst fucking under the stars.

And Gallici is assisting in bringing it all back with his Resort 2026 collection, even if it's a short lived experience, we'll take it.  So, let's delve into and enjoy the end times, and find meaning in its occult wisdom..."

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(A. Glass 2025)

Full review: chiasmusmagazine.blogspot.com/2025/06/ann-demeulemeester-resort-2026-lookbook.html