Yohji Yamamoto. mens Spring/Summer 2027 - Paris Fashion Week
The master, Yohji Yamamoto, turns 83 this year, and like every seasonal Paris Fashion Week, his stalwart fixture remains a undeniable presence, reminding us all, that he's still here. Yet, there is, of course, a notable slowness, which may have very little to do with the aging process, but more, as a subtle protests, that in our digital dependant world, we need to slow down. To which Yamamoto could be offering a clue to us all, that it is time to take a breather, maybe even walk slower in his Zen prose, as seen with his models parading in a slow procession down the runway. Is Yamamoto keen on slowing down Gen Z?
Which, is a warranted question, considering the hyper paced digital world, namely social media, and without the benefits of a cohesive counterculture which is reamons as elusive as one could wish for, with the Far Right now digging in, with their wayward and oppressive doctrines. The unwinding of an authoritarian based world is going to be a major effort, maybe the first part of this effort, is to reduce and even ditch the digital sphere. Followed by a quietness, which brings a better awareness to the dire situation our world is in, from climate change to hate being legitimized into global policy.
The sombre array for his Spring mens 2027 collection is within Yamamoto's trademark black, and washed out greys, maintaining his draped and flowing stylizations. Stitching picked out, and wartron looks, that despite the youngness of the models, there is an overall, as mentioned, weariness. The clothes, stand out as visual reminder, as much as the physical shape does, that wear and tear is inevitable. A far cry from Yamamoto's collaboration with Adidas via Y-3, where youthful exuberance is matched with an aesthetical resilience, as opposed to his signature label, and the four decades of offering an avant-garde take on high fashion. Yamamoto mastery is a slow lesson.
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(A.Glass 2026)

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