Kiko Kostadinov. Spring 2027 - Paris Fashion Week

I mainly review Fanning sisters (Laura and Deanne) women's collections for Kiko Kostadinov's signature label, and my most recent actual Kiko desgend collection was in 2019, six years later I decided to check on the U.K designer to see what is going on, and for this year's Spring 2027 collection, a lot has changed, or evolved for the Kiko template.   Yet, obviously he has ramped up his modernist imprint more than ever and this new collection, is his most architecturally structuralist to date.

But, this has been done before, be it from Kostadinov's U.K. compadre Craig Green, which has been working that minimalist, modernist blueprint, within his own unique take on functional wears, rather than blatantly avant-garde.  And like Green, Kostadinov's materials of choice are wools and viscose, synthetic blends, hiding buttons and zips, keeping in lockstep with what could be, although it has occured before on the runway of recent years, a militaristic, dystopic stylisation.  Also, watch for his SciFi influenced Oakley collaboration sunglasses. 

Which in turn, despite Kiko moving towards a more structured look from previous collections, with the overall collection portraying a rigidity which may be his renewed direction for future men's styles.  And as noted with previous Kiko shows of the last 10 years, is his obvious interest in costume looks, ala movie productions, mainly in the science fiction prose, and very much within the 1970s aesthetics of the said dystopia/utopia wears.  With his latest stylizations akin to the late costume designer Bill Thomas, and Thomas's Greco-Roman meets 1970s Disco costumes worn by the actors on the 1976 movie "Logan's Run" and warning about Proto-Fascism returning in the near future (now?), highlighted more so by Kiko's geometric flows.      

And with that in mind, dare I say, Kiko latest arrays, do have have that Fascist Rationalism and early Soviet Constructivism, mixed with in a Totalitarian Fashion overture.  Are we seeing fiction reflecting reality? 

Do you agree?

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(A.Glass 2026)