Excerpt: VTMNTS. SPRING 2023 - ZÜRICH
"Guram Gvasalia's VTMNTS side project to VETEMENTS or however you are inclined to see it, is a morphing of concept brands under one banner. Regardless of the marketing reasons behind the word play and abbreviation of the VETEMENTS brand name, Guram's shrew business sense of attaining his anti-fashion statement has always held up as an ambiguous purpose. Yet, the VETEMENTS sub-brand is only three seasons old, having debuted as a digital affair in July 2021 and when Paris runways returned in earnest throughout 2022, VTMNTS Fall showing was a crowd spectacle, Gvasalia has returned back to the digitized version for VTMNTS Spring 2023 Menswear and Ready-to-wear collections. And it can be said that Guram works best when VETEMENTS and VTMNTS shows are of a crowdless expose. They feel more rebellious, less restrained as a presentation, in reflecting that antithetic creativity which both he and his brother Demna, of Balenciaga fame, have exceled.
The latest VTMNTS collection was held inside a building still under construction within Zürich Airport, to which Guram remarked that the reasoning for staging his latest collection in this enclosed triangular looking bunker, was to evoke “...a church of the future, where you belong simply by being your true self." With the world in turmoil and a war raging in Ukraine by Russian aggression..."
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