Excerpt: BALENCIAGA PRE-FALL 2023.

 

"...Demna's Fall 2023 collection has attempted to bring Balenciaga back to a rawer from, which as noted in my review of his return to the runway after the controversy, maybe a reset of sorts.  And the Georgian designer does work best when he simplifies the brand with cleverly detailed tweaks, which in turn creates an interest for the Demna Balenciaga fanbase.  There is no mistaking the Eastern European charm that Demna brings to Balenciaga ala his Vetements imprint, be it that 1990's rave scene of Poland, Ukraine, Georgia and Russia, which in all of its irony could never afford Western street/sportswear brand names, but was, before China, creating en masse imitations and knock offs of Adidas footwear and jackets.  When I see this reflection of his Eastern European roots from Demna's Balenciaga, it does create a redemption of interest for me.  Of course, this has been underlying to most of his runaway shows and lookbooks, more so his rag tag team of Balenciaga models, which do indeed look like they've stepped out of the underworld of some Eastern European city.

Demna, is also very adept at breaking down glamour, even though, as mentioned I would not deem him as a Avant-garde designer, there is however under the luxury banner a veiled protest of indulgence and excess.  This in its paradoxical element, is the dilemma that an artist faces under the possibility of fame and wealth.  Which is always at the expense of creativity.  One does not create art to become rich, yet the Universe may align itself in your favor, and this occurs only once in a lifetime.  Where you may find yourself at the center of attention..."

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Full review: chiasmusmagazine.blogspot.com/2023/05/balenciaga-pre-fall-2023.html

(A.Glass 2023)