from the chiasmus archive: January 21st 2019. "BORIS BIDJAN SABERI MEN'S FALL 2019 – PARIS FASHION WEEK"

Boris Bidjan Saberi as seen prior with his 2018 collection, maintains his military inspired mountaineering arrays. A temperament of fashion trends born out of the globally tumultuous years of 2017 and 2018, which is now appearing to be a solidified trend. And we are not talking the traditional dabbling with camouflage pattern work, no, more of a darker, possibly a 'street' militia (gang) orientated attire. That I feel, compliments the changing of our cities, what is described by that assertion, is the orientation of turmoil of the major cities throughout the world. Protests, violence, crime increasing. There has been over a decade of gentrification, which in all of Utopian wisdom, that in someway should be admired as a possibility of ingraining a productive middle class society, was actually a deep fallacy riddled with corruption.  Of course urban decay, law enforcement and crime will be mirrored back onto aesthetics, which, as the police become more militaristic looking, it will be interesting to see how the temperament of paramilitary style uniformity among law enforcement could have a counter effect on the general population. 

Saberi, who has shown in past collections an appreciation of futuristic, dystopia and science fiction themes, holds the line with his Fall 2019 styles. Bringing in the influence from the Silk Road ala the nomadic traveler, and as mentioned, street militaristic styles. But, once again he sets down the scifi raiment of looks, that young designers should note, ingraining Saberi's individualism as a fashion designer. The importance of maintaining a single perspective of creativity and expanding on its possibilities, rather than shifting direction.

Copper accessories, seen on the models faces as decorative imprints. To which Saberi decreed that it was his “soldier looks” like a stylized warpaint, of an urban street gang from a parallel Earth.  In turn adding to the uniformed sentiment which Saberi is noting within his Fall 2019 collection. Draped coats and distressed linen, woolen over-layered styles, all reflecting a protecting and encased feel. The tailoring is exceptional, cut beautifully, as Saberi has defined his own path within the so called Avant-garde fashion industry. 

For Saberi's color palette, he maybe moving away from the over inundation of black and white, as starkness can be achieved from all of the colors of the spectrum (even pink!), so once again it shows his expertise as a designer and artist, with his use of light greens as it blends into neutral grays, browns and creams.

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(A.Glass 2019)