From the Chiasmus archive: David Koma. RTW Fall 2021 – London (June 4th, 2021)
(Images: David Koma 2021)
This tiny little spec, the Earth, traveling through the Milky Way at 220 kilometers per second, supporting, with a unique habitation on the surface of our tiny planet, the only known biodiversity and natural life bearing construct in the whole Universe, which is also filled with a tumultuous and angst ridden species; the human being. Yet, as Oscar Wilde once said, “We are all in the gutter, but some of us are looking at the stars,” such is UK designer David Koma’s Fall 2021 collection inspired by space exploration and study, more so the potentiality of how it impacts on human innovation and thought, he has constructed a sleek futurist collection of defined possibilities. Koma’s well aligned and sexy modernist suit the action to the word ensembles have carried on throughout the 2020 lockdowns, with 2021 already in effect, the fashion weeks remain as digital only affairs – all the while designers are now adjusting to the crowdless runways, relying completely on lookbooks as their only representation.
Koma’s latest amatory and deviceful offering is a notch up on the sleekness of previous seasons, in fact the styling of his Fall 2021 ready-to-wear array is exceptional, the sex appeal is still in place as seen from previous showings, but Koma has crafted the seductive appeal with a more delineated maturity, showcasing some of the most beautifully cut clothes to date. As mentioned , the modernist cues are fixed in its overall template, with very slight avant-garde leanings also integrated into the collection. As 2021 will be, in regards to fashion, the year of the goth, Koma’s mix of the sultry vamp and 1980s cocktail amour keeps the collection from being too doomy. But, maybe doom is the new sexy. With his futurist take on dealing with a post and possible pre again (pesky mutations) viral world, could well and truly be on the money.
A mostly achromatic rendering, with sharp blues and contrasted greens balancing the light and dark throughout, Koma has also experimented with neoprene on a selection of dresses, which, if not crafted in a correct manner, can portray a boxed in look of the styles presented. To which he has, in a very smart way, ensured that the fits and structure of the synthetic materials used are tamed, maintaining its distinctness on the models. Also noted are one piece v-neck leather and fine wool styles, with crystal embroidery sewed into the dress straps and pattern work. Yes, it is dark, with a doomesqe overture, but if the Earth is hit by a large Solar Storm, it could be candles, cocktail dresses and bunkers. Why not embrace the Stygian.
A fantastic collection.
(A.Glass (2021)
Spring 2024 review soon.
Comments
Post a Comment