Y/Project Spring 2024 - Paris Fashion Week.

Y/Project's postmodern inclinations, has kept Glenn Martens steady flow of unique stylisations, adding to his accentuation of mixing the eros with the avant-garde.  Which, if one is to ponder on the dichotomy of the two fashion trends, it would be by is definition a relatively difficult concept to pull off.  Yet, the Belgium designer has been able to devise the said combination of the amorous within his deconstruction aesthetic, as the long standing creative director for Y/Project after its founder Yohan Serfaty passed away in 2013.  

Y/Project is one those brands which has endured, that despite emerging from the fading avant-garde trend of 2010, which has since petered out almost entirely, with slew of label's that have folded, and only a handful of brands have remained.  Which would show the shrewdness of Martens, who could reshape Y/Project as a exclusive designer brand, that would appeal to younger markets.  Y/Project as a label is thirteen years old, which is young in fashion industry years, yet measured against the fickleness of want-it-now societal trends, a brand being over ten years in the fashion world is actually considered old.

Yet, Martens has held the line with his collections over the years, and as mentioned, while maintaining the sex appeal with his pinch and whirl tweaks with its avant-garde appeal.  And there is no doubting his attention to detail and ability to meld the layering of fabrics with exceptional pattern work, giving Y/Project its distinction within designer fashion.  Also noted is Martens interest in structural elements to his styles, be it from sculpture and architecture, imprinting those influences of the risque in challenging conventional norms of structure.    

Y/Project Spring 2024 array stays within Martens vision, stating that he was inspired by Bruges, a city in Belgium,  gothic architecture when formulating his latest collection.  And if you have ever been to the Belgium city, you would marvel at the medieval architecture, recognized by the UNESCO World Heritage Centre as a historic landmark.   The brooding gothic churches and its neo-gothic houses, overlooking picturesque canals.  However, despite being inspired by Bruges structural history, Martens Spring 2024 feels more dystopic, slightly broken down and less refined than previous collections.  Possibly indicative of our times, as we are filled with extreme uncertainty and a global society in disarray.  In saying that, it does feel like a festering counter culture is emerging, which could be reflected in Martens latest collection, that despite it portraying less of a projection of Martens crafted avant-garde of the last decade.  The Spring 2024 looks align more with a delesheled and untidy style, which could be a subtle indication that all is not well within the timelines of history.

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(A.Glass 2023)